Meat lover's paradise (2)

But while you wait, there is that famous list of Mortinis, the restaurant's double martini cocktails, both shaken and stirred with exotic ingredients, such as those that go into the Ginger Lychee Mortini, a blush pink drink that is designed to appeal to ladies who dine.

But, served with a slice of cucumber, it still has bite, exactly as a good martini should. The spice of the ginger against the bitter gin was balanced with the sweetness of lychee.

The next ritual is choosing your meal. A waiter pushes a trolley of ingredients close and begins singing their praises, pointing not just the individual cuts of beef, but the cornucopia of tomatoes, broccoli and asparagus that will adorn the meat in salads and side dishes.

At Morton's, they do not compromise on size and you can be sure that each portion is full-blooded American.

By the time the waiter finished his well-rehearsed introduction, we were ready for another Morton signature - the onion bread, although in the bitter Beijing winter, it had gone from oven-hot to table-warm.

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