Real gold jewellery glowed in this season's fashion weeks in New York, Milan and Paris as the runways sizzled with gold fabrics and accessories heralding the metal's return to the forefront of fashion.

Established fashion designers such as Marc Jacob, Nicole Miller, Carolina Herrera and Vera Wang are among those who have made gold their metal of choice for the season.

Off the catwalk too, the fad of gold jewellery has been widely adopted by women from all walks of life.

Gold jewellery, especially of the 18k variety, will be hot in 2006, according to Vicenza Oro 1, the international jewellery trade fair held in late January 2006, which offered a glimpse into what will make it onto jewellers' shelves this year.

More than 1,600 exhibitors showcased their designs and the return of gold was tipped as one of this season's biggest trends.

"The fashion in jewellery this year is the momentous shift away from gemstones towards heavy-metal jewels, and towards jewels that luxuriate in the glory of gold, since gold is the noblest metal of them all," said Cynthia Unninayar, editor-in-chief of The International Jewellery Quorum magazine from the United States.

At the trade fair, Gold Expression, the jewellery show sponsored by the World Gold Council and the Vicenza Fair showcased more than 400 fashionable and marketable pieces from 65 Italian jewellery manufacturers.

The pieces, which are innovative and versatile and demonstrate the beauty and style of Italian design, were previewed in New York last December and, after the Vicenza launch in January, will tour the world starting in China and India in April.

"After a highly successful debut in 2004, Gold Expression has established an international reputation for both creativity and marketability, becoming a focal point that enables both media and buyers to identify new trends," James Burton, chief executive officer of the World Gold Council, told China Daily.

For 2006, the 65 Italian companies participating in Gold Expression have identified six general trends.

Basic function tops the list since the traditional uses of gold in marriage, religion, and family gifting remain unchanged.

During this year's Chinese Lunar New Year Festival, jewellery stores in major cities across the country reported dramatic increase in sales, especially of gold products, despite the continuous rise in gold prices.

The unwritten message that accompanies a gift is almost as important as the gift itself. When choosing a gift, people like to buy something that could express what they want to say to the one they love.

A good many designers present "roses" and "hearts" collections for gift-givers.

The "Roses" collection from Robert Coin, president and chief designer of the Vicenza-based jewellery manufacturer Roberto Coin S.P.A., includes white, yellow and rose gold pendants, rings and earrings.

The "Hearts" collection, from the company OMA 27 AR, designed by Gisa Dall'Avo, features bracelets and earrings in different sizes linked by "hearts" and made of polished yellow gold.

Inspiration from nature

Ronco's "Rose" collection has delicate petals crafted from satin-finished yellow gold with light effects, while Luca Radin has given us "Spinning Hearts" pendants featuring two stylized hearts of polished yellow gold spinning around a sun of white gold.

Designs drawn from nature remain a key design trend. For example the concept of the flower inspires designers to create popular floral-patterned jewellery.

In Rosato's "Flowers" collection, there is a necklace made of intense yellow gold mixed with multi-coloured enamel. Butterflies are the inspiration for designer Eddie Manzardo whose "Eleganza" collection features the lovely creatures in white, yellow and rose gold fluttering about on bracelets, rings and earrings.

Company Giante's "Nature" collection presents necklaces and earrings with bunches of leaves in yellow and pink gold and Marilisa Zen's "Magic Dream" collection features tiny gold stars in yellow, rose and white gold rings, earrings and bracelets. Tiziana Vial offers the "Glittering Grapes" collection and the "Sunbeam" collection.

The third trend finds many designers going back to basics, giving classic jewellery a modern twist. The new mood for clean simplicity represents the way we aspire to live today, from a healthy lifestyle, to craftsmanship and jewellery.

Styles are linear, simple and functional. Chains have evolved into organic shapes with flowing lines, contrasting textures and colours. Links have become graphic or flat. Basic outlines are re-interpreted as sculptural forms.

Like in fashion, mix 'n' match is another main trend. Designers mix both materials and colours.

Licia Mattioli designs a yellow gold necklace mixed with mother-of-pearl, mahogany and terracotta. Designer Roberto Burroni's "Urban" collection presents necklaces and bracelets made of yellow and white gold mixed with pearls, bamboo and leather.

Art and architecture have turned out to be the fifth major inspiration in gold jewellery design. And most of these designs boast of a strong individuality.

Orogami's "Labyrinth" collection presents the gold ring, earrings and bracelets in the shape of the maze that represents a spiritual journey. Angelo Mori and Massimo Brini have come up with a Renaissance-inspired collection that features the steeple of a famous church in the Tuscan hills.

Stefani Stefano shows a collection reminiscent of Art Nouveau arabesques while Jarretierr's "Sound of Soul" collection has the musical notes and staff on earrings, bracelets and necklaces.

Finally, the pretty, collectible additions to bracelets and necklaces represent the sixth trend. Charms are called jewelled toys and especially loved by young people.

The most impressive charms at Gold Expressions 2006 were those made by Rosato, the company with Hollywood actress Demi Moore as brand ambassador. Following last year's tiny handbag charms, Rosato showcases charms of gold shoes for bracelets and necklaces as well as charms of bags and shoes made of gold and embellished with Swarovski crystals for watches.

Source: China Daily