Fall/winter fashion of 2010 (2)

New creations from John Galliano, Chanel and Missoni. Photos: IC
A retro evolution

Retro looks swept the runway, from Louis Vuitton's 1940's skirt-suits, Tibi's belted officer-style coats, to Armani's square-shouldered jackets.

During Tuesday's Louis Vuitton show in Paris, supermodels Elle Macpherson, Laetitia Casta and Lara Stone sizzled in 1940s New Look-inspired skirtsuits with nipped waists, full skirts and tight halter-tops that strained to contain their cleavage.

A bohemian, 1970s spirit infused many other Paris collections, from heritage French fashion houses Leonard to Yves Saint Laurent to Chloe – where designer Hannah MacGibbon hit her stride with high-waisted pants and cozy camel sweaters.

Anna Sui called her collection as her protest for the computer age, with exuber-ant, multicolored, floral and geometric prints, often patchworked together in a vibrant collage effect.

In New York, Tibi cited inspiration from Napoleon Bonaparte and his wife Josephine in a collection of belted officer-style coats, pronounced shoulders and epaulets along with chiffon dresses and corsets.

In Milan, Armani presented square-shouldered jackets over short shirts that were reminiscent of the 1980s while sleeveless dresses were covered in tiger print or embroidery. He also put capes over dresses and toques with strips that lay like a fringe on models' heads. Armani picked an "uptown girl" look for his Emporio Armani line, with short skirts paired with eco-fur and wool jackets.

Prada's silhouettes cast a late 1950s/early 1960s look with jackets with doubled-up collars in fur and knit and matching skirts. Dresses bore wallpaper-style patterns in red, mustard and brown and were worn with wool socks decorated with frills.

Celebrating the 40th birthday of his brand, Roberto Cavalli picked a bohemian look with military-inspired tapestry brocade tailcoats and mixed fur jackets. Models wore transparent trousers over shorts and floating dresses in tulle.

"I wouldn't say that [designers] are being cautious," said Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director at Harrods. "I would say it's more of an evolution than revolution."

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